Yala covers nearly a thousand square kilometres of scrub, lagoon and rock outcrop along the south-east coast. Block 1, the section open to most visitors, holds a leopard population dense enough that researchers can recognise individuals on sight — which is what draws the jeeps.
What you can expect to see
Sri Lankan elephants, water buffalo, spotted deer, sambar, wild boar, golden jackal, grey langur, mugger crocodile and peacocks in absurd numbers. Sloth bears are present and most likely in June and July when the palu fruit ripens. Over 200 bird species have been recorded, including painted storks, serpent eagles and the endemic Sri Lanka junglefowl.
Costs, honestly
Park entry for a foreign adult comes to around USD 42 once the permit, service charge and 15 per cent VAT are added. A private jeep with driver is typically USD 45 to 70 for a half day, shared between everyone in it. Budget roughly USD 90 to 110 per person all-in for a private half-day safari — anyone quoting far less is putting you in a shared jeep with strangers, which is fine if that is what you want.
Where to stay
Tissamaharama is the practical base, 20 minutes from the gate, with everything from guesthouses to good hotels. Kirinda is quieter and near the sea. There are also tented camps just outside the park boundary, which are expensive and unforgettable.