The hill-country line was built by the British between the 1860s and 1920s to move tea down to Colombo. It climbs from sea level to over 1,800 metres through 46 tunnels, and the stretch between Nanu Oya and Ella is the one on every Sri Lanka feed on the internet.
It deserves it. It is also a working commuter railway, frequently late, and considerably less comfortable than the photographs suggest.
Which section to take
The full Kandy to Ella run takes six to seven hours. The best scenery is the last three to four, from Nanu Oya onwards. If your time is limited, board at Nanu Oya — the station for Nuwara Eliya — and ride to Ella. That is what our itineraries do, and nobody has ever complained.
Classes, honestly
- Reserved second class. The right answer. Assigned seats, fans, windows that open and access to the doorway. Around 1,000–1,600 rupees.
- First class observation. Air-conditioned, sealed windows, and on some carriages the seats face the rear. Comfortable, but you are watching the view through glass.
- Third class unreserved. Cheap, chaotic and often standing room only, but full of life. Fine for a couple of hours, punishing for six.
Booking
Reserved seats go on sale 30 days ahead and, on this route in high season, can sell out the same day. Options:
- The official Sri Lanka Railways reservation system online, which works but is temperamental.
- In person at any main station, which requires being in the country a month early.
- Through your tour operator. We book these weeks ahead as a matter of routine for everyone travelling with us.
What the journey is actually like
Slow — around 25 km/h in places. Loud. The vendors come through selling wade, mango with chilli salt and very sweet tea. The scenery alternates between dense cloud forest, tea estates in perfect rows, waterfalls beside the track and, at Idalgashinna, a ridge with a valley falling away on both sides at once.
People stand in the doorways. It is a tradition and it is also how several tourists have died — the tunnels are close and the train does not slow down for them. Hold the handrail properly, keep your head and body inside, and do not lean out for a photograph.
Nine Arch Bridge
The 30-metre viaduct near Ella is a 20-minute walk from town. Trains cross several times daily, typically around 6.20am, 9.20am, 11.30am, 2.30pm and 5.30pm, though these shift constantly. The early crossing gives you soft light and, more importantly, almost nobody else on the bridge.
